Category Archives: Travel

The Wines of Basilicata

Picture courtesy of Zenith Holidays.http://www.zenithholidays.co.uk/italy/basilicata/
Picture courtesy of Zenith Holidays. http://www.zenithholidays.co.uk/italy/basilicata/

By Judy Pinegar

Basilicata, in southern Italy, is a region whose name crops up only in wine circles. It is home to just four Denominazione di Origine Controllata  DOC’s, (certified growing areas) which collectively cover only two bottles in every hundred produced here.

Winemaking in Basilicata dates back over a thousand years. While in central and northern Italy it was the Etruscans and Romans who pioneered local winemaking, in the south this task was largely undertaken by seafaring Greeks.  Basilicata was also influenced by the Byzantines, who ruled the area during two distinct periods in both the 6th and 9th centuries and gave the region its current name. (from Greek basilikos, meaning prince and governor).

It was during the Middle Ages that Aglianico (then known as Ellenico) took its place as the leading wine grape variety – although recent theories lean towards the introduction of the grape (known as vino de llanos, or wine of the plains) under Aragonese rule in the late Middle Ages.

Compared to the rest of Italy, the total wine production in Basilicata is very small; less than 500,000 hectoliters, of which only 3% comes under the DOC designation.  The main area for viticulture lies in the heart of  the fertile Vulture Massif in the north, located around extinct volcano of Mount Vulture on volcanic soils.

Although the mountainous terrain and harsh weather makes vine-growing a challenge, this area still enjoys an abundance of sunshine throughout the growing season and cool temperatures around harvest, thanks to the mild currents from the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west.  In this hilly territory the local variety, Alianico del Vulture, reigns, producing quality wines which exhibit fine aromas and flavors.

There are some very pleasant examples of Moscato, and some superb Malivasia, the best of which come the Vulture zone and the eastern Bradano Valley.  Primitivo, Sangiove and Montepulciano also do particularly well, as does Bombino Nero.

The Aglianico del Vulture wine, but expands further afield to the plains of Materia where it is used in Vino da Tavola wines.

Judy is a retired education administrator and dietitian, now enjoying writing for a living, who lives in  Loomis, California, where she grows fruits, vegetable and grapes and makes award winning home wine.

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The Ghost Town of Basilicata

Picture courtesy of Sometimes Interesting “weird, forgotten or sometimes interesting things”
Picture courtesy of Sometimes Interesting “weird, forgotten or sometimes interesting things”

Craco is the southern Italian hill town located Basilicata, about 25 miles inland from the Gulf of Taranto at the instep of the “boot” of Italy. The medieval village of Craco is typical of the hill towns of the region with mildly undulating hills with the lands surrounding it sown with wheat.  During the mid-Twentieth Century recurring earthquakes began to take a toll on the town until between 1959 and 1972, when the village was almost totally destroyed by a series of landslides.

In 1922 over 1,300 Crachesi left to settle in North America because the poor agricultural conditions created desperate times and the land was not producing enough for the people. Craco was doomed. Now, Craco is uninhabited. Starting in 1963, the 1,800 remaining inhabitants were gradually transferred to a valley in a locality called Craco Peschiera.

But, the Craco Society in New York, founded in May 2007 is a non-profit organization to preserve the culture, traditions and history of Craco. Two visits to the site have been made by society members, and as of March 2014, the organization has grown to 466 members. They are currently working on projects to meet future goals.

These goals include: expanding their membership to reach the many Crachesi descendants worldwide in an attempt to share the history, culture and traditions of the town. They are planning the 7th annual Crachesi del Nord America Reunion next summer, and the celebration of San Vincenzo’s 113th year in New York in October, 2014.

They plan to continue to work to support the preservation and renovation of Craco from the ravages of nature, obtaining historical and genealogical records and establishing even closer bonds with the residents of Craco Peschiera. They invite anyone with a special place in their heart for this ancient, historic town to join them in their mission. Contact them at: http://www.thecracosociety.org/.

By Judy Pinegar
Judy is a writer for numerous publications

Avila, Spain – May 2015


Pictures of Avila

After being in Madrid for awhile, we decided to take a narrated bus trip to Avila and Segovia, two famous cities to the north of Madrid.

The main monument is the imposing Walls of Ávila (11th-14th centuries), the medieval work was started in 1090. The enclosed area is 77 acres, it has 88 semicircular towers, and walls  over 9 ft thick, with an average height of 39 ft, and 9 gates. It is the largest fully illuminated monument in the world. It is possible to walk upon the walls themselves for roughly half their circumference.

We also visited the Cathedral of Ávila, a Romanesque and Gothic church, a cathedral-fortress, its apse being one of the turrets of the city walls.  It is surrounded by a number of houses or palaces. Across town we also visited the church and museum dedicated to Saint Teresa.

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Madrid, Spain

Text by Judy J. Pinegar  Photos by John J. O’Dell

Arriving by train, really late (about 10 PM) we got a taxi to the place we were staying. They didn’t charge us for being late which was good because the rules said it would cost us 30 euros (1.12 cents= 1euro). But restaurants nearby were still going gangbusters and we ate, then went to bed.

The next day was typical Madrid, better said in pictures than words, a shop full of deserts (John in convinced no one can do desserts like Spain), the subway (we got very good at this), Plaza Mayor, a very nice OLD bar, statues, buildings, Lions about to eat men, Historical figures hanging out of buildings, churches, Museo del Prado (they wouldn’t let us take many pictures inside), and fantastic old doors.

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Trip to Santiago de Compostela, Spain

Text by Judy J. Pinegar, Pictures by John J. O’Dell

“The Way” or the Camino de Santiago has been used for over 1000 years for pilgrims to get to Santiago de Compostela, the tomb of Saint James the Apostle.  Although there are many “caminos” or paths to get there, the most frequently used is the path from France, 783 Kilometers (486 miles) across all of northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela. John and I met one of those people, Cody from Louisiana, and shared several hours (on a train from Santiago to Madrid) talking about his month long experience. He walked the whole way, after training for three months in Colorado, because with this trip you have to cross the Pyrenees Mountains.

A 13th century poet wrote “The door is open to all, sick and healthy, not only to Catholics, but also to pagans, Jews, heretics and vagabonds.” There are many places to stay along the way where people charge 5 or 10 euros for food, a place to stay, a shower and laundry services. Cody said there were often 3 or 4 languages at a table for 12 people! Carrying a walking stick with an attached scallop shell, it is now more popular as a personal or spiritual journey of discovery, rather than one primarily motivated by religion, an average of 150,000 pilgrims a year make the journey today. If you walk at least 100 kilometers (62 miles) you get a ” Compostela” certificate  and there is also a passport in which you put the stickers you accumulate along the way.

Needless to say, John and I have no stickers or certificates, but the church and the city are beautiful and very old. Sometime in the 9th century a religious hermit, following a shining star unearthed the tomb of the Apostle James in the woods, and after it being confirmed by a local Bishop, the Spanish King and eventually the Pope, pilgrimages began, and today a grand Cathedral stands in the spot, built piecemeal over several centuries it is a mix of Romanesque with baroque and Gothic flourishes. The biggest part was built in 1075 to 1211, with the tops and flourishes added later, then an 18th century facade was added (we didn’t see it as it was being refurbished), you may see the netting in some of the pictures of the outside.

After taking the tour of the Cathedral and it’s museums, we also saw a very mysterious street act, where one man appears to be holding another man in the air with his staff, only two (one of each) of their hand are on the staff…. what do you think?? Then a trip on the tourist bus and another day to the huge Ciudad de Cultura de Galicia (the area which contains both this city an A Coruna) which has lots of symbolism: the overall shape resembles a giant stone wave sliced into sections, the footprint in the vague shape of a scallop shell, or the shape of the old city portion of Santiago de Compostella.  On this site, we visited the museum, the largest library I have ever seen, and a display of the architectural designs for the site. Although the project was started in 1991, the first two buildings were opened in 2011, with another added in 2012, and at least three more are planned. Currently work has stopped for lack of money.

Then there are pictures of some of the tapas available for sale, some of the streets and buildings, flowers and a big fruit and vegetable stand in the city… after two days we left for Madrid via the train.

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Our Trip to A Coruña and Buno

Text by Judy J. Pinegar, Pictures by John J. O’Dell

Coming into A Coruna it was a nice hotel with horrible basement parking. John did it the first time, but then they asked him to let them park the car in the future, and  John was more than happy let them!

These homes are called glass houses because of the intense number of windows facing out to sea
These homes are called glass houses because of the intense number of windows

So out for a stroll we saw the most famous sign of A Coruña, glass houses facing the marina/port, then the Plaza de Maria Pita… dedicated to Maria Pita. The English were bad neighbors here, first the Spanish Armada took off from here and failed badly, mostly due to the horrible weather. Then Sir Frances Drake the famous pirate came to take over the town, and was succeeding until Maria Pita, who  was assisting her husband, an army captain manning the defenses, when he was killed by a crossbow bolt that struck him in the head. An English soldier with a banner, who was making his way to the highest part of the wall, was killed by Pita. She appeared on the heights of the wall herself, shouting: Quen teña honra, que me siga (“Whoever has honor, follow me!”) whereupon the English incursion was driven back by the defenders. The English later gave up the assault and retreated to their ships. I always like it when the women come through!

Plaza de Maria Pita
Plaza de Maria Pita

We then went into the walled old town and saw a 12th century church, a beautiful walled garden, and views of the port.

12th century church A Coruna
12th century church A Coruna

We then came to the Plaza of Humor, with cartoons from all over the world including Disney engraved into the concrete, and a statue of a funny man… John is still mad that I put my hand on his leg!

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Later we went to a archeological museum, inside of what used to be a prison, Castillo de San Anton, with Roman ruins and evidence of the later military uses.. Then a walk along the exposed coast, where we saw an odd glass structure that turned out to be the port navigation center (on high like at an airport)! and finally the Tower of Hercules, which was first a Roman Lighthouse, then made over several times to the current structure. Fairly well preserved relics were still beneath the tower, but the ceiling was about  5’6″… my son Kevin would have had to be in a crouch to see it!

Tower of Hercules A Coruna
Tower of Hercules A Coruna

One day (well actually two) the first time John had forgotten the old picture he had of his Mom’s house that he had taken when she was visiting with him in her old age. We showed the picture to two people who were born and still living in Buno and they recognized it right away and gave us directions. So we took some pictures for the family. See John beside what is now a metal door into the stone structure. His mother told him that the animals lived on the first floor, and the people lived on the second floor, which was quite common in those days.

John's mothers home in Buno Spain
John’s mothers home in Buno Spain

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Three Days of Travel along the Coast of Northern Spain

Text by Judy J. Pinegar, Pictures by John J. O’Dell

After leaving Bilbao  we spent three days getting to A Coruna. Our first stop was Cuervas de Monte Castillo, a site with several caves with prehistoric wall paintings by humans since 150,000 years ago. We had a 45 minute guided tour of the cave which has 275 paintings and engravings of bison, deer, goats mammoths, hand prints, and other mysterious symbols dating from 26,000 to 11,000 BC. Unfortunately they wouldn’t allow pictures so you just have to take our word for it… I did get a picture of John standing outside the entrance, by a big rock, some flowers which appeared to be growing out of pure rock, and the scenery of the area!

When we stopped at the Villa Rosario hotel in Ribadesella, a beautiful, beachfront hotel, a classic century old mansion built by a returned emigrant from Latin America or the Caribbean (with money), I thought I must have really gone off my budget of 70 euros a night.  But it turned out we were in the newer addition (black glass and grey rock across the street, for only 55 euros)… still very nice, almost luxurious inside, really…. and we had breakfast for only 9 euros each in the all glass beachside restaurant next to the older hotel. The town was nice with lots of boats and a fantastic beach… too cold of course this is the Atlantic. They had our same London plane tree, but cut back like a fruitless mulberry (pollarded I think it is called), with the branched grown together within and between trees. Very interesting.

Cudillero, Spain
Cudillero, Spain

The we were on the way to Ribadeo, stopping first at Cudillero, with streets winding down an impossible steep cliff side to end at a picture perfect harbor, this tiny fishing town now gets many visitors in the summer, luckily we are before tourist season to start in June. However the food here was still about three times the average for a meal an any of the towns we have been visiting so we moved on.

Then Ribadeo with plenty of time to explore the small town. We visited Santa Clara Convent, built in the Middle ages and still operational now we heard singing from a half open door and the sign said earlier in the day they sell almond cakes to make money. Then the Moreno’s Tower built between 1914 and 1915 following the design of an Argentinean architect, which is now the best known building in Ribadeo. Then down to the port past a tiny staircase path to houses above, and a tiny shop filled to the brim with everything you can imagine! After walking the town for several hours, we had to go back to the hotel and wait because restaurants don’t even open until 8PM. Still at 8:30 we were the only ones there until 9PM. This is true all over Spain on this trip. The waiters tell us most people come to dinner between 10 and 11 PM. People working on roads, parks and in stores start at 9 or 10 until 2 PM then a siesta until 4PM then continue working until 7PM. So dinner is Later!

Next the city of A Coruna and visiting John’s mom’s birth town of Buno!

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Travel to Bilbao, Spain

Text by Judy J. Pinegar, Pictures by John J. O’Dell

After leaving San Sebastian by bus, we arrived in Bilbao, famous for the Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art.  Again we stayed in the old part of town (Casco Viejo), and after a rest, took the river walk to the Museum.

The first thing we saw was a beautiful red bridge, for cars leaving and entering town, going over some huge towers to mark the beginning of the museum.  Next the huge spider, the dancing women and the tower of silver balls, all famous signs of the Guggenheim Museum. Inside was modern art which didn’t thrill either of us and an interesting temporary exhibit about the sculpture, painting and other art, including a full length movie by Niki de Saint Phale. Very interesting woman, now deceased. In front of the museum is a huge puppy, his body made from flowers planted in turf on a huge mesh statue.

Walking home we see some tapas bars and many narrow streets. The next day we visited a museum of the history of the Basque peoples, along with some maritime exhibits, some churches and other neat buildings.

That day we ate in a typical Basque restaurant with a cideria (a huge barrel of the local apple cider) … to pour a glass you have to start far away from the stream/spigot, and not spill a drop! Ha! that was fun, and tasty too! This area’s documents show that the people were sipping cider as far back as the 8th century. The region churns out 80% of Spanish cider up to 30 million liters a year!

 

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San Sebastian, Spain

By Judy J. Pinegar  Pictures by John J. O’Dell

Upon arriving in San Sebastian by bus from the airport, we quickly found our lodgings in the Parte Vieja (old city). A quick walk and we were at the shell shaped beach, Bahia de la Concha, lots of  boats docks and shipyards were to the right and to the left the beach and the newer part of the city. The City Hall was a very conspicuous building in the middle (formerly a gambling hall that went out of business when they changed the laws to disallow gambling)! Then a garden of strange trees, which we learned were imported from Paris.

Quite near or lodgings we found a baroque style church, Saint Mary of Assumtion,  that was built in the second half of the 18th century. This was the third church built on this site. The first of Roman style was built about the middle of the 12th century, the second, Basque Gothic style in the middle of the 16th century.

Both earlier sites were burnt down due to fires from the surrounding area as well as military attacks, as it was located directly below the Castle or Urgull, a military fort. The exterior shows a magnificent rococo style facade.  In the interior, the main alter was by Diego de Villanueva and above is the large painting of the martyrdom of St Sebastian. Other alters include Our Lady of Solitude and St Catherine.

On the side in the back was The Chapel of Christ of Peace and Patience with a 16th century statue of Christ which used to be at the gates to the city.

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Last Day in Barcelona, Spain

Stables

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Stables


By Judy J. Pinegar  Pictures by John J. O’Dell

We set out for the Maritime Museum, but on the way I noticed a new (since I was here with my daughter) Guell site by Gaudi: Palau Guell which was the first great commission Antonio Gaudi received from Eusebi Guell, and industrialist, politician and patron who became the architect’s greatest client and also his best friend.

The building was built between 1886 and1890, and contains the essence of the type of architecture and helps people understand better his later works… this was his test model.

The place was the Guell home (10 children) until they moved to Parke Guell when that was finished. The youngest daughter of Guell transferred the Palace to Barcelona Provincial Council for cultural use in 1945.

The palace contained a basement stable for horses, as well as storage space for wood and other household items. A fancier stable, all in brick, I have never seen in my life!  The entry floor with two huge iron worked gates, the Spanish call the “el piso bajo” floor, and they say what we would call the 2nd floor the 1st, et cetera…sort of hard to get used to!

So starting with the first floor it became fantastically beautiful, here was the great room, with a cabinet to be opened for prayer, or closed for dancing or other activities. an organ, beautiful paintings and furniture. Around this was a visitors hall, Guell’s office and rooms for music study and art study for the children as well as a fantastic dining room.

Higher levels contained bedrooms for all the children and the main bedroom suite for the parents and the “bath.”, above that was the servant’s workrooms, kitchens and sleeping rooms. the final level was the roof, with absolutely fantastic chimney’s… you will see in the slideshow! We were glad to have substituted this for the Museo! And we were off to San Sebastian by plane (cheaper and 8 hours less that the train) to the same place!

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