I’m sitting here at the Sacramento International Airport waiting for my flight to take off at 1:20 pm. I’m flying American Airlines this time instead of Delta. Going through security I thought I was going to have to take off all my clothes before the darn alarm would stop going off. Every time I walked through the metal detector monster that everyone has to walk through it would just keep buzzing. Finally, down to my shorts, I got to go through. (just kidding)
You know the gig, take your shoes off, then your belt, your keys, your cell phone, you cell phone case, pull the laptop out of the case, remove the steel plate out of your head, (no, they haven’t gone that far yet).
Once I get to Texas there is a two hour delay for the flight to Buenos Aires. Good thing to do when you get on the long flight to Buenos Aires is take a sleeping pill, forget about whatever they bring you that they call food and wake up to summer in South America.
Our last day in Buenos Aires was Saturday February 9. My observation of the City this time from the sights of my trip here two years ago is that there are profound changes happening. Some of the changes are good, such as the majority of the stores are not locked now. When we were here two years ago, almost all restaurants and small shops were locked and you had to ring a bell to get in. There are still guards or security in a majority of the stores, but they’re not locked. You have to realize that starting in 1980 until 2001 there was huge unemployment and a large majority of people could just barely survive and as in all countries when times get bad, the crime rate goes up.
Florida Street, an upscale shopping areaInside shopping mall
Inside Galerias Pacifico located on Calle Florida, one of the most famous shopping malls in Buenos Aires, designed to recall the Galeria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan, Italy, with it’s long halls, glass cupola and several tiers of shops. The frescoes were painted by local artists.
Another change is that a lot of the stores and restaurants and shops prohibit smoking, although a large majority of people seem to smoke. Now a lot more stores are taking credit cards and there are constant ads trying to get you to get cards. Two years ago, it was hard to find a store that would take a card. People here like to deal in cash, since a national sport is to avoid taxes, which is currently on twenty one percent value added tax basis.
The bad is that there are a lot of fast food junk shops such as McDonald’s and Burger King. I counted two McDonald’s within one block and a Burger King thrown in the middle. In addition, it seems like a large majority of the people drink Coca Cola with their meals. I don’t recall seeing many overweight people last time, but now, according to the local news, sixty percent of the people are overweight and you can see it. It seems like the junk food boys are carpet bombing the world with their garbage.
The curse McDonalds & Burger King junk food
You can see a large McDonalds sign on the right, then one on the far left with a Burger King in the middle. The men in the forground is an outgrowth of the unemployment, they started making a living by collecting paper from garbage thrown away and continue to this day.
There is even a McDonalds in the Jewish District which serves kosher food, the only one in the world outside of Israel. However, if you want a big mac with cheese, which is a no-no in kosher food, all you have to do is turn around and there is another McDonalds and another one downstairs serving the super size me meals. (If you haven’t seen the movie, Super Size Me, about McDonalds, you have missed a great movie about fast foods.)
Also last time almost every woman wore high-healed shoes (despite the horrible sidewalk conditions.) In the intervening time there has been an invasion of flip-flops and now they are everywhere, women wear them with nice dresses now. Also I think it is much more informal in dress now, we saw many more shorts on women, however the tops continue to be let us say “revealing” of womanly charms, which I appreciate. And the pants are painted on in some cases.
It has been a great trip, the people are friendly and it’s easy to find a good cafe or restaurant with great food no matter where you go in the City. We stayed in the Microcentro area, which is a nice part of the City but very busy and lots of traffic. But next time we will go back to the Belgrano area where we stayed last time, a more friendly, residential neighborhood. It has a lot of clothing and other shops that have great prices because they cater to the locals, rather then the tourists.
One of the many beautiful streets in Buenos Aires
A nice area to sit, notice all of the cafes with outside sitting
One night this week we went for a tour of Puerto Madero with Julio Iannetta and his daughter. Julio is a brother of Albert Iannetta, one of my real estate agents. It is a beautiful, clean, new area of the city down where the old docks of Buenos Aires use to be. When the city outgrew the area the old warehouse and granaries were abandoned for a while. But recently the shells of the old buildings have been turned into apartments, lofts, offices and of course restaurants and shops. Very High Scale.
We toured the streets that are all named after famous Argentine women. There are great places to stroll, along the riverfront and around the four large diques (basins) of the former port, with many moving bridges, including this one:
Ladies Bridge Pureto Madero
This bridge which opens to let ships through, is a work of art.
In the area there are also two of the most exclusive hotels, the Faena Hotel and the Universe and the Hilton Buenos Aires. On the outside the Faena is all old brick, it used to be the Edificio El Portino (the main port building) but inside…an exclusive 83 room hotel costing from 300 to $1200 US per night. Each of the rooms has a home theatre and large totally mirrored bathrooms with a spa. When you check in, you are assigned and experience manager who takes care of all your needs while in the city. There are many treatment rooms, a huge health club area, and experiences such as polo with the pros and painting classes with a famous artist. On Friday John and I walked through the public area of the Faena – a very impressive swimming pool area with a swim-up bar, beautiful dining rooms and nightclubs, the lighting was truly an art in itself.
The Faena Hotel, an architectural master piece
We also walked through the Reserva Ecological Costanera Sur, once a landfill that nature has taken back over and is now a protected area for migratory waterfowl, swans, coots, flamingos, and other little animals and reptiles.
Some of the fauna found in the reserve
We found a relative of Skippy (Judy’s turtle at home in California) just strolling across the path, and redirected (him/her) back toward the water.
A wondering soul in the form of a turtle
Our apartment is very centrally located within 1 1/2 blocks of one of the main Subtre (subway) lines. These are our main method of transportation around the city, although taxies are cheap and extremely readily available. It is the black glass front building you can see in this picture, just past the statue of Man of La Mancha – Don Quixote and his house.
Avenue 9 de Juilo
A view towards our apartment from the Av. 9 de Juilo, the widest street in the world
We left Bariloche Friday the 19th on a bus at three in the afternoon and arrived the next day at ten thirty. The ride is very comfortable and the seats fold down to make a bed. A hot meal is served at night and a very light breakfast in the morning.
We checked into our apartment which is right downtown and about five blocks from the Obelisco. The Obelisco is a monument to Buenos Aires and was built in 1936 in just thirty one days. It was built to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the first, but unsuccessful founding of the city in. It was later founded in 1580.
Under the Obelisco is a shopping center and underground pedestrian causeway around the center of the subtre (an underground subway) The shops are old, dating back to the 1960’s. It’s called the Paseo Obelisco, with not much for shopping, a few barber shops, cheap clothing, cafes and other little shops. Three subways or metros meet at the Paseo Obelisco.
The Oblisco on the Avenida 9 de Julio micro central Buenos Aires
Later in the night we went to a restaurant that had a tango show. Dinner, the show and a small bottle of wine was only 70 pesos or so, about 22 bucks, we could almost touch the dancers. The dancing and singing was wonderful and full of great energy. The last time I was here I had my camera pick pocketed. This time, I bought a Cannon SD750 for our trip. I really like this camera, it’s small, you can put in your pocket, out of sight, and in crowded areas, I put both hands in my pocket. I put a four gigabyte card in the camera and was able to take movies of the dancers with plenty of memory to spare.
Tango dancers
Tango dancers at their best
Another tip, if you have a laptop, download your pictures every night, then if your camera is stolen, you still have the pictures you took. That’s what I did last time, and only lost that one days’ worth of pictures.
Then on Sunday we went to San Telmo, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, it was the home of the very wealthy until the 1877 outbreak of Yellow Fever. It is the barrio most identified with the tango, also lots of shops selling antiques. On Sundays there is a huge market inside of Plaza Dorado (an entire block of stalls) and all the way up and down Calle (street) Defensa is a huge open air market. It is at least 13 blocks long, with no cars allowed, only side to side artesans selling their wares. And many of the side streets add another block or two of people selling there wares. It took us all day to complete the circuit. So that was the good part of the day, what comes next wasn’t so funny.
Judy and I were walking on down town street broad daylight, returning to the apartment when we both felt a sudden splash on our backs. It was a slightly smelly goop sort of the texture of weak concrete. Immediately, a women walking beside us came over to help clean it off. Then a man comes from the other direction, pointing up to a window he says he saw some one throw the stuff at us. While “helping” they took my wallet out, took two hundred pesos and my ATM card. Then they returned the wallet with 2 pesos left. I had been warned about more than one person coming to your aide yet missed it when it was happening. How naive we were when it was actually happening. Oh well, I hope this helps you in your travels. The card is cancelled and we are only about 60 bucks short for the lesson.
Pick pocketed!
Pick pocketed!
On Monday we spent a disappointing day going from government office to government office, waiting in line, trying to get John’s official Argentine identification number and passport. After three places and much waiting, we have a fourth place to go to tomorrow morning as everything governmental closes down by 3 PM! What a life! (Of course I don’t know when they start but I really don’t think it is earlier than 8AM. They told us to be at the next office between 9 and 3 tomorrow.
